Chapter 3
How did
three Americans find themselves living in southern Vietnam? (Not South Vietnam,
that hasn’t existed since 1975 and the Communist victory in the civil war
between the North and South. That’s how the Vietnamese in the South here referred
to it. In the North, it is seen as the reunification of their divided country.
A country divided by the western imperialists, first the French and then the Americans.)
A divorce
catapulted me out of my simple upper middleclass American life. One day my wife
came to me and said that she’s happy but she wants to be super happy. Could you
find another place to live Sal?
I’d
worked in the financial industry and had enough money put away so that in my
mid-50’s I could take off and have a really good mid-life crisis. (50 being the
new 40.) If this were THE mid-50’s instead of MY mid-50’s I’d probably consider that my
life was over. But it’s not. And I decided to start a new one.
So after
putting my affairs in order, which meant quitting my job, talking to my
daughters (who fortunately for me were in college), and hiring a divorce
lawyer, I booked a flight to Thailand and began Sal’s life, part two.
job of
scaring the shit out of me. I did like the fact that it did make time seem
unreal, as did LSD years ago.
I quickly
grew bored in Thailand and determined that sitting in the sand all day was no
way to have a good psychological adjustment. I needed something more exciting.
I wanted something to write home about.
So then I
booked a flight to Cambodia, spent a day walking the ruins of Angor Wat,
brushed aside lady-boys offering to massage my body, and decided that I needed
a different kind of excitement.
On to
Phnom Penh and a trip to the killing fields. Genocide. Mass graves. Khmer
Rouge. Pol Pot’s war on anyone with an education or glasses. The Cambodian
people were sweet as could be, but I wasn’t going to stay in that land-locked
city for very long. Two days later I was on a fast boat down the Mekong River,
on my way to Vietnam.
And
that’s where this adventure begins. After the frightening experience of being
met at the border by dour-looking soldiers with guns and having to give them
our passports, I fell in love with the country. The rivers, the sea, the green
landscape, and most of all the playful, welcoming, fun-loving people.
My first
minute off the boat and I was greeted by a young guy on a motorbike offering to
find me a hotel, a massage, a girl, and a place to eat and drink. I suggested
we find the hotel and then a place to eat and drink.
sounded
interesting because the name was familiar from Vietnam War era news.
It was in
Nha Trang that I fell in love with Vietnam and fell in love with more than one
sweet, longhaired, short-legged, sexy, Asian woman. I loved the street food, the
weather, and ocean views from just about everywhere. My traveling days were
over. My troubles were not.
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